Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak (6,461m/ 21,190 ft) is an exciting, scenically stunning mountain becoming popular among trekkers and climbers as it is the Mera Peak Climbinghighest trekking peak in Nepal in Khumbu (Everest) Valley. Situated on the edge of famous Khumbu Region and dominated by Mt. Everest, climbing Mera peak is an opportunity to all the adventure seekers who are physically fit. Lifting the eyes from Mera and keep on lifting them until, above the clouds, the mighty frieze of the world's 8000 meter Mountains- Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu and many other peaks is an unforgettable experience.

Mera Peak climbing begins following a short and exciting flight to the mountain airstrip of Lukla and after continuous trek for days through the high and lovely valleys you will get to the area of Mera. Although physically very demanding on account of the altitude, the climb on Mera Peak is not technically difficult as ascending snow slopes rarely exceed 40 degrees. The only qualification you need to ascend Mera peak is your excellent physical fitness and an extrovert sense of adventure. Our Mera peak itinerary has been carefully designed to allow gradual acclimatization for the climbers. The walk in initially through the virgin forest of the Hinku Valley is incredibly beautiful and provides excellent acclimatization for the peak itself. Our unrivalled service, quality equipment, food, trekking staff and an experienced leader ensure that your Mera trip will be an lifetime adventure experience in Nepal.

NOTE: It has been a matter of curiosity of many climbers that on which- North Mera Peak (6,476m/21,240 ft, Central Mera Peak (6,461m/ 21,190 ft), or South Mera Peak (6064m/ 19890 ft) have we been operating our Mera expedition. In general, we operate expedition to Mera Central (6,461m/ 21,190 ft) although the highest one is Mera North (6,476m/21,240 ft). Due to huge crevasses and glacial changes happening there in the route to Mera North we operate the expedition to Mera Central.

  • Trip Itinerary
  • Cost Include/Exclude
  • Additional Information
  • Testimonials

Day 01: Arrival day in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264 ft)
Welcome to Himalayan country of Nepal. Upon your arrival at the Tribhuvan intl. airport our representative welcomes you and assists to transfer in your hotel in Kathmandu. After time to get refreshed, evening you'll meet and transfer for welcome dinner in one of the typical Nepalese restaurant in the heart of Kathmandu and briefing about your trip and overnight at Hotel.

Day 02: Rock climbing/ Kathmandu valley sightseeing & trip preparation
After breakfast, we drive 3 Kms drive to the place called Balaju, a natural rock climbing spot. You would have 3 to 4 hours rock climbing training course escorted by our climbing expert. This is the time for you to learn the required climbing technique to attempt Mera including with using rope, ice axe, crampons etc. Instead, you may join our city tour of Kathmandu valley which covers the main highlighted parts of the valley eg- Kathmandu Durbar Square, Monkey Temple, Pashupati Nath and Bouddha. Evening you will have a formal introduction with your trek/climb leader; check your final climbing equipments. Over night at Kathmandu

Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft), 40 minutes flight
This morning you'll be transferred to domestic airport to fly to Lukla. It takes 40 minutes scenic flight to Lukla airport (2,800m/9,184ft) and you will have time to stroll around, before the camp set up. After camp setup followed the keeps your things at camp and serving lunch and remaining time explore the local areas and Sherpa lifestyle go and watch and evening overnight at tented camp.

Day 04: Trek to Chutanga (3,430m/11,250ft), 3-4 hrs walks
Today, as our first day trek is an easy walk which leads eastwards, the path from here is less frequented than the other main trails from Lukla, walk follows through a number of hamlets and wood yards until we reach a thick forest of silver fir, birch, pines and rhododendron trees and bushes on the hill side below Nau Lekh also known as Kalo Himal Ridge, on this portion follow the Sherpa or the group as there are many path leading away from the main trail. There are many small streams with numerous places for camp, whole of this area referred to as Chutanga which is a summer pasture. Our first campsite in the wilderness is pitched on the meadows with time for a short walk around and overnight at tented camp.

Day 05: Trek to Chhatre danda (4,000m/13,160ft), 5-6 hrs
We continuing our trek after 1st day at Chutanga, our adventure begin with a steep climb to cross the Kalo Himal Ridge in the Nau Lekh range which separates the Khumbu from the Hinku Valley. A steep uphill climb from our camp brings us to a cairned notch in the ridge with a collection of Buddhist prayer flags at 4,450m. This small pass is called the Zatrwa Og, from here the path traverses across a boulder slope, round a corner and climbs once again to the Zatrwa-La at 4,600 m. In bad weather to find the path of our route can be quite misleading care should be taken but with fine weather, the view across the Dudh Kosi towards Karyolung and the Lumding Himal are very impressive, and the scenery across the rolling foothills of the Hinku Valley. From here less than hour descends will bring us to a large boulder which will be our campsite for the overnight at Tuli Kharka.

Day 06: Trek to Mausum Kharka (3,430m/11,250ft), 3-4 hrs walks
After camp at Tuli Kharka, today will be a short trek on the downhill slope, the path descends with superb scenery of Peak 43 and Kusum Kanguru and then coming to a fine vantage point of the Hinku valley, with grand views of the South Face of Mera Peak entering the forest once again, the trail drops steeply into the Hinku vally. A pleasant walk leads through the forest full of tall Himalayan pine and rhododendron trees. We make our camp on the clearing known as Mousum Kharka by the Hinku Drangka River and overnight at tented camp.

Day 07: Trek to Thagnag (4,360m/14,301ft), 5-6 hrs walks
From Mousum Kharka, our route follows the west bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, eventually leaving the forest, the valley widens and opens, coming to a pasture and small kharkas (barn and a shade of the shepards) used for grazing goats, sheep and yaks, then our path leads to a small bridge to reach at Gondishung at 4,350m, a summer settlement of Tagnag with its huts and stone walled enclosures. Gondishung itself has a fascinating 200 year old gompa (monastery) beneath a great rock overhang, is a small Gompa with a buddha and several buddstava, prayer flags and number of crude mani walls. Trek continues for another hour passing beyond Lungsamba as the valley narrows between the flanks of Kusum Kangguru 6,369m to the west and the truncated far western peak of Mera 6,255m then finishing our today's walk here at Tagnag, a settlement made by the yak herders. Nowdays there are several tea houses here to cater the needs of the local staffs and porters who accompany Mera expeditions and beyond. Here we will have three nights camping on this beautiful surrounding.

Day 08: Rest day for acclimatization
A well worth rest day for acclimatization and local hike in this wonderful setting, surrounded by stunning peaks, specially Peak 43 which rises to 6,769m altitude. Just north from the camp there is a huge moraine behind which is dammed a beautiful glacial lake known as the Sabai Tsho, into which plummets the hanging Sabai Glacier well worth exploring with time spent will help you to acclimatize well.

Day 09: Trek to Khare (5,000m/16,400ft), 4-5 hrs walk
After a great time at Thagnag, today's destination is a short day walk of 4-5 hours but we will take it slowly acclimatizing and enjoying the surrounding scenery. Our route follows a relatively good trail leading up across the moraine which dams the Charpatti Tal, and then reaching a high point lined with cairns overlooking the glacial lake after more than half hour climb. From here the path descends slightly before touring the ridge and crossing a sandy bowl to the steep stream that descends from Dig Kharka, as we proceed on the right bank until after 45 minutes we reach the large pasture of Dig Kharka, here we cross the stream with the help of stepping stones towards the walls of an old shelter. We will have a break here perhaps time for lunch, after Dig Kharka, walk leads to a steep climb for few minutes, passing a large bivouac stone and then contouring around the hillside reaching the stream once again. We re-cross the stream at an obvious spots on large boulders. Following a trail for more than an hour across the boulder strewn hillside, we reach at Khare for our overnight.

Day 10: Rest Day/ Ice Climbing near Khare
Today, we have a rest day for acclimatization or take a hike uphill for an hour where we can give you Ice climbing training (dependable with availability of the snow). Besides this, there are some interesting hikes from Khare; above the camp it is possible to climb 5,550m on a high moraine ridge for more good views of the Mera La and the route up the mountain. Evening return back to our tented camp for overnight.

Day 11: Trek to Mera High Camp (5,800m/19,024ft), 5-6 hrs walk
As our continuing journeys and our route advances towards south climbing the moraine and following the crest to the foot of the black, steep screed slope, the path zig zags its way up to the top, as we look across a boulder strewn bowl to the lower tongue of the Mera Glacier after less than two hours hard walk from Khare. The route crosses the bowl and then climbs the ground to the right of the tongue to a large rock platform beside the glacier after another hour of careful walk. From here we must be on crampons for safety to climb the 30-35 degree ice for quarter of an hour to reach the plateau leading to Mera la. The trail are well marked,(unless there has been recent snowfall) the path weaves its way around and between the crevasses toward the Mera-la, from here its another hour to reach the pass, on reaching Mera-la after 3-4 hours of morning walk, we continue our journey for another 3 hours to our overnight high camp beneath Mera Peak, the first hour climb offers grand view of the northern peaks of Makalu, then Everest with cloud plume peeking over the massive black wall of Nuptse. Later as we come near to our High Camp view of Cho Oyu can be seen. Arriving at High Camp if the weather is favorable, panorama of Kanchenjunga comes into view far to the east and we set our camp at high camp.

Day 12: Climb of Mera (6,476m/21,247ft) and descend to Khare (5,025m/16,486ft)
We start our big day after an early morning breakfast, for the summit to Mera. From the high camp the summit bid will be made early in the morning (anywhere from 2am to 5am), and take around 4 to 6 hours to make the summit. Whilst the distance doesn't look far, we can assure you it will be hard work, and all the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off here. It is usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards along the route. The route can vary depending on the conditions of the season but usually skirts around a major shoulder in front of us to the back side of the mountain and then traverse in a fairly straightforward approach to the summit knob. As the light comes, we enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. Further to our left is Everest, peaking over several unnamed peaks of the Hinku. To the south we can see for miles down to the terrain. We aim to make the summit early/mid-morning and return to Khare after summit. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. Our contingency of equipment and experienced staff and a time buffer, gives us a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard and consistently from the beginning of the expedition. The day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand, the trek approach, and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit.

Day 13: A spare Summit attempt day
One extra day we use to keep as a spare day, set aside in case we have to postpone the attempt on the peak because of bad weather or because some of the group have not yet acclimatized well enough to make the ascent. If everything gone smooth and you succeed to climb at the summit day you can use this day for another Ice climbing day or spent one more night at the village on the way back to Lukla.

Day 14: Return back to Gothey(3600m/11,812ft)
After a great succeed of the expedition to Mera peak we descending through the Hinku valley to Gothey for our overnight stop. All the way enjoying the panoramic views of the Himalayan valley and different mountains we reach at Gothey for overnight and evening relaxing with the local wines or whatever you want at the camp.

Day 15: Trek to Tuli Kharka ( 4250m/13,944ft)
After breakfast we climb up through the lush forest on the west side of the Hinku Valley to Tuli Kharka below the Zatwra La where we are staying overnight at camp.

Day 16: Trek back to Lukla via crossing Zatrwa la (4,600m/15,093ft)
After breakfast we start our last day trek. Today first we climb few hundred meters to the Zatrwa La top will be our last climb of the trip. After the top we descending up to Lukla village where we concludes the trekking part and this evening enjoy with crews at the last dinner at the mountain and overnight at teahouse.

Day 17: Fly back to Kathmandu, 40 minutes flight
The flight time to Kathmandu, are schedule for morning normally, because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason beyond our command. Anyway we will fly back to Kathmandu and your guide will transfer to hotel. You may have time to relax after long journey and take back your breath and rest at your hotel.

Day 18: Departure from Kathmandu
Today is free or last minute shopping for souvenirs or gift to your family, friends or relatives for you until your departure flight/drive or to commence any extra trips or activities you may have booked with us. If departing, you'll be transferred to the International Airport for your departure flight to your onwards destination.

Trip Facts

  • Total Duration: 17 Nights / 18 Days
  • Mode of Transport: Flight
  • Accommodation: Tea House / Camping
  • Trip Grade: Strenuous
  • Max. Height: 6476m
  • Start From: Kathmandu
  • End To: Kathmandu
  • Best Season: Spring / Automn

Trip Map

Mera Peak Climbing map

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Cost Indcludes:

  • All airport/hotel transfers
  • Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
  • Accommodation in 4-star hotel (Hotel Shanker or similar category hotel) in Kathmandu
  • Teahouse and tented accommodation during trekking and climbing
  • Breakfast in Kathmandu and all meals and boiled water in mountain
  • All ground transportation as per the itinerary by private vehicles
  • All necessary staffs with experienced English speaking climbing leader (guide), cook, assistant climbing leader (4 trekkers: 1 assistant guide) and Sherpa porters to carry luggage (2 trekkers:1 porter), other helpers (1 trekker: 2 helpers) including their salary, insurance, equipment, flight, food and lodging
  • All necessary paper works; trekking permits and Mera Peak climbing permit
  • Down jacket, four seasonal sleeping bag, Himalayan Glacier Trekking duffel bag, t-shirt, and trekking map (down jacket and sleeping bag are to be returned after trip completion)
  • Group mountaineering camping and climbing equipments-very high quality North Face or Mountain Hardware or similar kitchen, dining, toilet tents, mattresses, and kitchen equipments
  • Travel and rescue arrangements
  • Welcome and farewell dinner
  • Exclusive Medical Kit Bag
  • All government and local taxes


Cost Excludes:

  • Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 20 kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain(due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu(and also in the case of early return from mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal climbing equipments
  • Personal climbing guide if requested
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, shower, heater, etc.)
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extended
  • Tips for guides and porters

Trip Facts

  • Total Duration: 17 Nights / 18 Days
  • Mode of Transport: Flight
  • Accommodation: Tea House / Camping
  • Trip Grade: Strenuous
  • Max. Height: 6476m
  • Start From: Kathmandu
  • End To: Kathmandu
  • Best Season: Spring / Automn

Trip Map

Mera Peak Climbing map

Related Links

 

The Climbing Group
For the Mera Peak Climbing trip, there will be one leader, one cook, assistant leader (4 trekkers: 1 assistant guide) and Sherpa porters for luggage carrying (2 trekkers: 1 porter), other helpers (1 trekker: 2 helpers). This arrangement ensures that should anybody in the group is sick, the trip can still go ahead as planned. We can run the Mera Peak Climbing trip for at least a group of two, and include maximum of twelve people only, as we've found this to be the optimum size for a successful trip. However, if you'd like to make a group booking for more than twelve people together, we can arrange this too.

Health & Experience Required
Mera Peak is not categorized as technical peak but a bit of technical knowledge would be beneficial for a little section of it, i.e., about 50m from the top Mera is a bit technical, which would be the toughest part of your adventure-slope sections being 40 degrees ice/snow. A previous experience on using Ice axe and crampons is preferred, although not mandatory because a pre-ice climbing training is provided to you in Mera Base Camp to make you skillful on using climbing gears such as ropes, ice pick, harness, crampons. Mera Peak climbing usually requires normally 5-6 hours of walking everyday and some days even 8-10 hours- such as in summitting day. We suggest you to get prepared with about 12 Km of walking or jugging exercise everyday before 3 months of your Mera Peak trip because on choosing Mera Peak trip with Amphulapcha, you are considering to walk in physically demanding high altitude and remote area for many days and more than six hours most of the days.To join the Mera Peak climbing trip with Amphulapcha Pass with a good chance of success, you must have: Lots of willpower, ability to tolerate harsh conditions, very high level of fitness and good health. It is vital that participants with pre-existing medical problems or conditions make these known to Himalayan Glacier at the time of booking. Medical and evacuation expenses are the responsibility of the participant. It is also important that you consult your doctor for vaccination and other medical requirements for your trip. Himalayan Glacier reserves the right to require a medical certificate prior to booking your trip.

Travel Insurance
It is a condition of joining any of our trips that be protected against comprehensive expenses potential to incur due to medical issues or accidents (to include air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please be noted that we don't arrange or sell insurance. For more information

Accommodations
Accommodations are included in the trip cost and TFT has chosen the best deluxe accommodation for 3 nights in Kathmandu in a 4-star Hotel, 1 night in lodge in Lukla, and 14 nights in comfortable two-men camping tent. To sleep in tent, 4 season sleeping bag and foam mattress will be provided. We maintain standard comfort in every matter based on the enforceable conditions such as weather calamities. All hotel and camping accommodation is on twin sharing basis, and will provide you single supplement if there is different sex without extra charge. If you prefer a single room, you may indicate your preference and get single room/tent on request by paying single supplement USD 350.

Meals
Freshly cook Meals on full board basis will be provided by our experienced and trained cook during the trek with high level of balance diet, hygiene and safety. Three meals (Nepali, Sherpa, and Tibetan, Continental, Italian and Indian cuisine) will be provided from the camp according Himalayan Glacier menu. Each day dinner and breakfast will be provided in the same camp you spend the night. Lunch camp will be fixed on pleasant surroundings.

Equipments & Packing List
While packing for “ Mera Peak Climbing”certain gears are essential to be considered.
Please Click here for the comprehensive packing list for this trip.

Acclimatization
Our Mera Peak climbing itinerary is planned with a high degree of awareness of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). Going up too fast causes a medical condition serious enough to kill. The higher the altitude the less oxygen there is in the air. For example, on the high camp & at summit, there is 50% less oxygen than at sea level. Your body needs many days to adapt to this less-oxygen environment. Our itineraries generally allow sufficient time to acclimatize. So for a safe trek and climb, it is absolutely essential to allow sufficient time for acclimatization. Sensible planning is therefore required to minimize the risk of AMS. We advise specially the guest(s) with known heart, lungs or blood diseases to consult their doctor before traveling. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite or stomach disorder are symptoms of AMS. Check out "Altitude illness" by Dr Jim Duff TFT's itineraries are designed to try to prevent AMS as much as possible, but it is important to remember that some people are more vulnerable than others.

Leader(s) & Staff Arrangements
The most significant thing that makes your Mera Peak Climbing trip successful, enjoyable and memorable is the skilled, experienced, courteous and helpful trek and climb leader and the crew members who have ability of operating your days in the mountain smoothly. Your trip will be led by the best and most professional leaders. All of our trekking/climbing leaders are carefully selected on the basis of their appropriate experience, leadership skills and personal aptitude. With an objective of sustaining local communities Himalayan Glacier Trekking employs Nepalese staffs who have adequate knowledgeable about culture, ecosystem, flora, fauna, geography, and history of Nepal. Trek/climb leaders of TFT are also trained with following trainings to make them educated on potential medical issues during their trek, biodiversity and environmental issues, English language, etc:

  • Intensive Wilderness First Aid - KEEP (Kathmandu Environmental Educational Project)
  • Trekking Guide Training - Nepal Government's Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation department of Hotel Management and Tourism Training Centre of Nepal.
  • Eco Trekking Workshop & Adventure Meet - TAAN (Trekking Agents Association Of Nepal)
  • English Language - KEEP
  • Conservation and Biodiversity - KEEP
  • Rock climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering - Nepal Mountaineering Association


Our Trekking and climbing Leaders obviously speak English sufficient enough to communicate but please consider this is not our mother language. The guides and porters know the routes and locality like the back of their hand, they practice the local culture themselves and they are extremely passionate about their country and its cultural aspects.

Porter Care:
Though often overlooked, it's no exaggeration to say the entire trekking and expedition industry in Nepal is built on the back of hard working local porters. It is their tireless efforts carrying supplies, equipment and baggage that make journeying to these remote areas possible. So it's very unfortunate that they have endured a history of exploitation and abuse at the hands of the industry. In an effort to combat this, we are firmly committed to porter rights. We ensure all our porters are well treated, well paid and we provide the level of shelter, clothing and footwear that these harsh environments demand. Porters who become sick are treated with the same care and attention as other team members and we have previously used helicopters - at our expense - to rescue porters from dangerous situations. We support the work of the International Porter Protection Group (IPPG), making our resources available to them to help improve the working conditions of the porters. (International Porters Progress Group)

Trip Facts

  • Total Duration: 17 Nights / 18 Days
  • Mode of Transport: Flight
  • Accommodation: Tea House / Camping
  • Trip Grade: Strenuous
  • Max. Height: 6476m
  • Start From: Kathmandu
  • End To: Kathmandu
  • Best Season: Spring / Automn

Trip Map

Mera Peak Climbing map

Related Links

 

Testimonials

Trip Facts

  • Total Duration: 17 Nights / 18 Days
  • Mode of Transport: Flight
  • Accommodation: Tea House / Camping
  • Trip Grade: Strenuous
  • Max. Height: 6476m
  • Start From: Kathmandu
  • End To: Kathmandu
  • Best Season: Spring / Automn

Trip Map

Mera Peak Climbing map

Related Links

 

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